파고, 주기의 정보로서 수위변동η, 그 시간적분법η, 파향의 정보로서 수평방향 2성분 물입자속도 u, v의 4가지 시계열을 판정하여, narrow band-width frequency spectrum을 가지는 불규칙파의 포락파형(enveloped wave)을 구함으로서, 파고, 주기, 파향의 종합확률분포를 상세히 유도하여, 현지실측경과와 비교, 검토했다. 그 결과, 실측되어진 종합확률분포는 유도되어진 파고, 주기, 파향의 결합확률분포와 양호하게 일치하여 현지 불규칙파랑장에 있어서 충분한 정도로서 적용할 수 있다는 것을 알았다.
A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.
