본 연구는 염색공정의 표준화와 재현성을 확립하기 위해 흥화 황색소의 견섬유에 대한 염색성을 조사하는데 목적 이 있다. 홍화 황색소는 물로 추출한 후 농축, 동결건조하여 분말상태로 만들어 사용하였다. 염색온도 및 시간, 염료농도, 염액의 pH 등에 따른 염착성과 색상 변화에 대해 조사하였으며, 세탁 및 광견뢰도를 평가하였다. 염색온도가 증가함에 따라 염착량은 증가하였으며 $30^{circ}C$에서 염색할 때 가장 선명한 노랑색을 얻을 수 있었다. 염료농도가 증가함에 따라 염착량이 계속 증가하여 점점 진하고 어두운 노랑색이 되었다. pH 3.5에서 최대염착량을 보였으며, 최적조건에서 색차는 1.11-2.01로서 재현성은 양호하였다. 색소와 견섬유간의 결합은 pH 5.5 부근에서는 주로 수소결합에 의해, 등전점(pH 3.8-4.0) 이하에서는 수소결합과 함께 이온결합이 관여하는 것으로 판단되었다. 세탁(드라이크리닝)견뢰도는 4/5둥급으로 좋은 편이었으나 일광견뢰도는 2/3등급이었다.
The objective of this study is to investigate the dyeing properties of safflower yellow dye on silk for the standardization of dyeing process and color reproducibility. Yellow colorants were water-extracted from safflower petals, concentrated, and freeze-dried to obtain colorants powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and pH of dye bath were studied in terms of dye uptake and shade. Fastness to dry cleaning and light was evaluated. Dye uptake increased with raising temperature and brighter and more vivid yellow shade was obtained when dyed at $30^{circ}C$. As colorants concentration increased, dye uptake increased progressively and the shade got darker and deeper. Maximum color strength was obtained at pH 3.5. It was speculated that the adsorption of colorants seemed to occur mainly by hydrogen bonding and physical force at pH 5.5 and by ionic bonding as well as hydrogen bonding below isoelectric point(pH 3.8-4.0). The results of reproducibility test showed acceptable color difference in the range of $1.11{sim}2.01$. Washing fastness was fairly good as 4/5 rating, while light fastness was 2/3 rating.
