본 연구에서는 천연 추출물을 이용하여 화장품 원료를 개발하고자 다양한 천연물을 대상으로 조사하였고 그중 광나무 추출물을 선별하여 주름 개선 원료로 사용하고자 하였다. 고성능액체크로마토그래피를 수행하여 주름 개선 효과로 잘 알려진 oleanolic acid 31.06 %와 ursolic acid 8.92 %를 확인하였다. 제조된 광나무 추출물은 피부 섬유아세포에서 procollagen type I과 hyaluronan synthase-3의 발현을 증가시키고 matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-2, cyclooxygenase-2의 발현을 감소시킬 뿐 아니라 elastase의 활성을 억제하여 주름 개선 기능을 갖는 것을 확인하였다. 따라서 광나무 추출물은 주름개선 화장품 소재로 개발될 수 있는 잠재력이 있다.
To develop wrinkle care cosmetic ingredients, various species of plant extracts were investigated. Accordingly, Ligustrum japonicum was selected as a candidate for developing cosmetic ingredient. By high performance liquid chromatography, 31.06 % of oleanolic acid and 8.92 % of ursolic acid which are well-known for anti-wrinkle effect were analyzed. The possibility of Ligustrum japonicum fruits extract (LJE) as a cosmetic ingredient was investigated using several biomarkers related to anti-aging, including anti-wrinkle, moisturizing and anti-inflammation. Procollagen type I and hyaluronan synthase-3 gene expression were increased by LJE in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas elastase activity and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-2 and cyclooxygenase-2 gene expression were inhibited. As the results LJE is applicable for a potential cosmetic ingredient focused on anti-aging effect.
